Last month saw the anniversary of 25 years in fashion for one of India's most prolific bridalwear designers, Suneet Varma. To celebrate the event, he showcased a collection entitled 'A Passage to India', which featured three different schemes, all revolving around a different aspect of the international influence of various cultures on India's fashion landscape, as different people migrated to the region. I've spoken before about my annoyance with designers throwing around terms like "Mughal" and "Maharani" when discussing their influences. To me, they are in danger of either one of two gaffes. They lay on the design elements of their intended thematic era with too heavy a hand, or they completely miss the point, and end up looking like they threw the words in for good press.
I am wondering now if Varma's work falls a little bit shy of ending up in that zone, and my bias in favour of him prevents me from admitting it. His work is beautiful nonetheless and that may be his saving grace in the end.
The collections were shown on a revolving stage, with three montages, one Baroque Parisien, the second Ottoman Empire and the third, Gothic Spanish. The stage would turn, models would step off, and walk to the runway, like dolls in a vignette. For me, the strongest collection was the Ottoman one, with the least tendency to borrow directly from the theme and the most continuity of design. I'll be presenting the pieces in two posts, so look out for the second post a little later.
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| Flapper Fringe. |
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| A velvet cap with plumes, very Roaring twenties. |
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| The blouse on this is a work of art, with it's structured, corset inspired bodice and draping bustline. The addition of the flowers on the shoulder is an unexpected touch of romanticism. |
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| Most of the Parisien French Collection features black and white schemes with bargello style motifs for a very Baroque feel. |
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| Black and white, ombre, applique flowers and scalloped border. Very on trend. |
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| Dupatta as a flapper-style veil. |
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| Varma choose a sunny yellow and blue scheme for his Mediterranean Ottoman inspired collection. I am in love with the layering of diferent lush fabrics for a very drapey and luxurious silhouette. |
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| One of my favourite design elements is the mixture of different patterns to create unity in the overall effect, When executed properly, as it is here, it is hard to look away. The corded belt is a total bonus. |
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| Honestly, one of my favourite pieces from the whole collection, the yellow is just right and is buttery and creamy with the indigo dupatta. I always love a sari with an additional dupatta on the bride's head, and this outfit is accessorized beautifully. |
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| Love, love, love this lush velvet jacket, can see it style so many ways, worn over so many different ensembles for a touch of Eastern romantic sensibilities to any day. |
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| Indigo, brick red, and golden yellow are definitely the colours of the season, showcased to stunning effect in this anarkali. |
